We mainly cut grass as a road safety measure to improve visibility at bends, road junctions and accesses. We also try to ensure that road signs are not obscured by foliage. Whilst safety issues are the most important, environmental and appearance factors are also considered; unfortunately these aims may sometimes conflict with each other. For example, many people prefer verges with a neat and tidy appearance, but this is not necessarily best for wildflowers and wildlife. As a compromise, grass in urban areas is cut with appearance in mind whereas conservation is given more importance in rural areas. Our contractors are required to cut grass to the following standards but we do operate on indevidual specifications
on rural roads, visibility splays and a single 4 ft (1.2m) width from the carriageway are cut twice a year; additional cutting is done when necessary to maintain sight lines; and
on urban roads, the whole verge is cut, to keep the height of the grass between ½ in (12mm) and 3 in (75mm).
on rural roads, visibility splays and a single 4 ft (1.2m) width from the carriageway are cut twice a year; additional cutting is done when necessary to maintain sight lines; and
on urban roads, the whole verge is cut, to keep the height of the grass between ½ in (12mm) and 3 in (75mm).
Sunday, October 15, 2006, 06:11 PM
102 comments ( 16620 views ) | 
( 2.9 / 62 )What's It For? — Armillatox
Armillatox consists of a blend of phenols emulsified in a vegetable oil soap and is completely biodegradable. Diluted with water and applied from a watering can, it becomes a highly effective fungicide and moss killer.
It is available from the Trading Hut in a 500ml plastic container with built in dispensing device. An instruction booklet is also included, which gives the appropriate dilution and details for the treatment of honey fungus (Armilloria mellea, from which the product gets its name); clubroot in brassicas; white rot in onions; black spot on roses and rose re-plant problems caused by soil sickness; moss in lawns and on hard surfaces and fairy rings on lawns; destruction of ants in the garden and wasps' nests. It is a useful disinfectant for greenhouses/poly-tunnels, staging, seed trays etc., and is the only disinfectant to be effective against the dog roundworm Toxocara canis.
What's It For? — Autumn & Winter Lawn Feed
If you treated your lawn with fertiliser this year, you probably used 'Spring and Summer' and/or 'Feed, Weed and Moss Killer' as and when necessary. These fertilisers have a high nitrogen content compared with their phosphate and potash contents in order to promote vigorous growth. It is not always realised that they should not be applied after say about the end of August, since this can lead to soft growth, which may be susceptible to disease as winter approaches and average temperatures drop. However, your lawn could still benefit from a change to 'Autumn and Winter Lawn Feed', the nitrogen content of which is relatively low but with high phosphates and potash contents. These ensure a strong root system and disease resistance and provide for vigorous growth when spring arrives.
What's It For? — Bonemeal
When finely ground and sterilised, bones provide a slowly available source of 'organic' phosphate, which is safe to handle. As a bonus, they also provide a useful level of slowly available 'organic' nitrogen.
Bonemeal is a particularly good pre-planting fertiliser for roses, shrubs, trees and other woody plants, encouraging strong and healthy root growth, leading to quick establishment. Vegetables, especially peas, potatoes, onions and root crops benefit from it and a regular dressing encourages the vigour and colour of outdoor bulbs and plants.
It may be applied all the year round as a base dressing before sowing and planting. Sprinkle it evenly over the whole area (4oz per square yard) and work into the top 4 inches of soil with a fork. When planting roses, trees and shrubs, mix 4oz with the soil from the planting hole before planting. As a top dressing to established plants, sprinkle it evenly amongst bushes and flowers, between rows of vegetables or over the whole area covered by the branch spread of trees and shrubs. Hoe or rake in and, if dry, water well for maximum benefit.
What's It For? — Calcified Seaweed
Calcified Seaweed is a calcareous marine algae resembling coral, known to marine biologists as Lithothamnium Calcareum. It is dredged from the sea bed mainly off the Brittany coast, dried at low temperature and crushed to a fine powder, which is readily assimilated by the soil. It contains about 46% calcium oxide, 5% magnesium oxide; sulphur, copper, iodine and cobalt and some twenty trace elements. It is an ideal soil conditioner and clay breaker, and can be used on lawns, beds and borders as an alternative to lime to correct soil acidity. It is highly favoured by chrysanthemum, sweet pea, dahlia, leek and onion growers. It is non-toxic and safe to use, does not scorch and stores well if kept in a reasonably dry place. 'Seagold' comes with an explanatory pamphlet listing application rates for different circumstances; copies can be obtained from the Trading Hut on Sunday mornings from 10.30am to 12 noon.
What's It For? — Lime
Soil is limed as and when necessary to counteract its natural tendency to become more acidic and to create and maintain optimum conditions for plant growth. Soils may be alkaline (chalk or limestone soils) or acidic (peaty soils) in reaction. An alkaline soil contains lots of calcium - an element required in small amounts by all plants. In very acid soils there is a shortage of calcium salts. The acidity or alkalinity of a soil is measured on the pH scale, which ranges from zero (exceedingly acid) through 7 (neutral) to 14 (exceedingly alkaline). In Britain most soils tend to be slightly acidic due to rain constantly leaching out the calcium. Luckily, most plants will thrive if the acidity of the soil can be adjusted to a compromise pH of 6.0-6.5. Club root disease of brassicas flourishes in acid soils but can usually be controlled if the soil can be held at a pH 7.5 (the upper pH limit for this class of vegetable). Simple soil testing kits, available from garden centres, enable you to determine the pH of your soil. They also give a list of plant pH preferences and the amount of ground limestone that you need to apply to raise the pH by one unit.
It is always preferable to use lime in the form of ground limestone (or chalk), which is safe and easy to apply. Hydrated lime (slaked lime, builder's lime) is available but its caustic nature means that it must be handled with care and applied with care to avoid damaging plants in the vicinity. If possible, apply the lime in autumn or after winter digging so that the rains wash it in slowly. Choose a calm day and spread it evenly by hand. Never use lime at the same time as manure or nitrogenous fertilisers as it may react chemically with them and reduce their effectiveness. If you are in a rush, apply the lime to soil that has been raked to a fine tilth and distribute it by raking well into the top few inches. Water the area and allow it to stand for a week before applying a nitrogenous fertiliser.
What's It For? — Milk
It would seem that the kitchen, rather than genetic engineering, may hold the key to garden pest control in the future. According to a report in New Scientist (14th Oct '99) Brazilian scientists have discovered that spraying plants with dilute cows' milk stops powdery mildew in its tracks. The disease is controlled conventionally by spraying with benomyl or other synthetic fungicides. Apparently, milk diluted with nine parts of water is just as effective. So milk joins that other kitchen standby, bicarbonate of soda, as a safer alternative to chemical sprays. The only snag is that in Britain, because neither substance is approved as a pesticide, anyone tempted to try them in the garden risks prosecution!
What's It For? — Old Carpet
Even when an allotment is filled with crops, a large area of bare ground remains that needs to be kept free of weeds. This area can be reduced considerably if access paths between rows / blocks of crops are covered by strips of carpet. Strips of man-made fibre carpets resist rotting and should have a life of at least two seasons. They are easy to cut with a Stanley knife using a tightly stretched garden line as a guide. Such covered pathways can be created quickly as and when required and the carpet rolled up when not needed. When the strips begin to sprout weeds, as they certainly will, simply turn them over as often as necessary.
What's It For? — Phostrogen
Phostrogen is a specially formulated all-purpose plant food in the form of a white, water-soluble powder. It contains nitrogen to promote healthy green foliage; potash to develop abundant flowers and fruit and make plants drought and disease resistant; phosphate to encourage a strong, healthy root system; and essential trace elements to keep plants healthy.
For convenience, it is normally applied as a solution in water. It can be used regularly throughout the growing season for all types of plants, both indoor and out. Apply plant food solution round the roots of plants as far out as the foliage reaches, using as much solution as when watering thoroughly.
How much and how often?
Container plants and young plants and seedlings: 1 level 5ml teaspoon in 10 litres of water, at every watering.
Flowers, shrubs trees, lawns, fruit and vegetables: 4 level 5ml teaspoons in 10 litres of water, every 7-14 days.
Tomatoes: 4 level 5ml teaspoons in 10 litres of water, every 7 days after first flowers have set.
House plants: 3 pinches per litre, at every watering.
Powder application, apply 2oz per square yard as a soil dressing in spring and repeat in the summer. Alternatively, to feed your garden in minutes, use a Phostrogen 'Handy Feeder', 'Easy Feeder' or 'Thru Hose Feeder'. Simply pour 250g of powder into the feeder bowl and use as directed in the feeder instructions.
What's It For? — Spring & Summer Lawn Feed
This fertilizer is specially formulated for lawns and grassed areas, and contains nitrogen, phosphate and potash (N-P-K 11-5-5). Used at 6-8 week intervals from say April to August, it will maintain an attractive lawn with good colour (see also What's It For? — Autumn and Winter Lawn Feed). Apply evenly at 1oz per square yard when rain is forecast, but if no rain falls within 48 hours water it in with a hose or watering can. Do not apply on top of wet grass as some scorch may occur. Do not use during very dry or frosty weather. After a very wet winter you may have to 'renovate' your lawn by dressing it with 'Lawn Feed, Weed and Moss Killer' - possibly more than once (the manufacturer recommends not more than three such treatments annually). This contains herbicides (to kill the weeds); sulphate of iron (to kill the moss); nitrogen (for top growth); potash (for hardiness) but no phosphate (for root growth). Being a 'multipurpose dressing', it costs about 20% more than Spring and Summer fertilizer at today's prices. Therefore, once your moss and weed problems are under control, change to Spring and Summer Fertilizer - it's better and cheaper.
What's It For? — Sulphate of Iron
Sulphate of Iron is used for lawn improvement, moss control and for creating the acidic soils needed by lime-hating plants such as rhododendrons, azaleas, heathers etc. It darkens the lawn grasses and improves their appearance. Used regularly, it gradually increases the acidity of the soil, which discourages some weeds and favours the finer grasses. It helps to protect the lawn against some common diseases and controls moss and algae growth.
As it is soluble in water, a convenient "moss killer" can be made by dissolving 1oz in 2 gallons of water and applying this from a plastic watering can with a fine rose over 4 square yards in spring and autumn. In spring, the inclusion of sulphate of ammonia (2oz) will boost the growth of the grass but this should be omitted from the autumn treatment so that the grass will harden off for the winter.
What's It For? — Sulphate of Potash
Potash strengthens plants and makes them more weather and disease resistant. It also encourages flower formation and colour, leading to better blooms and higher fruit yields. It is particularly beneficial to tomatoes.
Apply it from early spring to November as a base dressing before sowing or planting. Sprinkle it evenly over the whole area (2oz per square yard) and work it into the top 4 inches of soil with a hoe or rake. As a top dressing to established plants, apply early in spring (1oz per square yard generally and up to 4 oz per square yard for fruit trees and bushes). Sprinkle evenly between rows of vegetables, amongst flowers and over the whole area covered by the branch spread of trees, shrubs and fruit bushes. Hoe or rake in and, if dry, water well for maximum benefit. Do not apply as a heap at the base of the stem and shake off any that lodges on the foliage. It may also be dissolved in water (1oz in 2 gallons) and used as a liquid feed.
What's It For? — Sulphate of Ammonia
Sulphate of Ammonia is a well-established, quick-acting, growth-promoting fertiliser with a response normally seen in about 10 days. Its main use is to give a rapid boost to established, quick-growing vegetables and salad crops. It is also a very effective spring tonic for shrubs, fruit and spring greens.
Apply it from April to September. Sprinkle it evenly between the rows of vegetables and under the full branch spread of trees, shrubs and fruit bushes (1oz per square yard). Hoe or rake it in and, if dry, water well for maximum benefit. Do not apply as a heap at the base of the stem and shake off any that lodges on the foliage. It may also be dissolved in water (1oz in 2 gallons) and used as a liquid feed. A light sprinkling over the surface of a compost heap each time the height rises by about 6 inches will speed the rate of compost production by 'feeding' the organisms responsible for the degradation process.
What's It For? — Superphosphate
Phosphates are vital in helping root development and the quick establishment of young and recently moved plants. Vegetables, especially peas, potatoes, onions and root crops benefit from them and a regular dressing encourages the vigour and colour of outdoor bulbs and flowers. Phosphates also encourage the early maturing of fruit.
Superphosphate may be applied all the year round as a base dressing before sowing or planting. Sprinkle it evenly over the whole area (2oz per square yard) and work into the top 4 inches of soil with a fork or hoe. As a top dressing to established plants, sprinkle over the whole area covered by the branch spread of established bushes, trees and shrubs (2oz per square yard). Hoe or rake in and, if dry, water in for maximum benefit. Do not apply as a heap at the base of the stem and shake off any that lodges on the foliage.
Armillatox consists of a blend of phenols emulsified in a vegetable oil soap and is completely biodegradable. Diluted with water and applied from a watering can, it becomes a highly effective fungicide and moss killer.
It is available from the Trading Hut in a 500ml plastic container with built in dispensing device. An instruction booklet is also included, which gives the appropriate dilution and details for the treatment of honey fungus (Armilloria mellea, from which the product gets its name); clubroot in brassicas; white rot in onions; black spot on roses and rose re-plant problems caused by soil sickness; moss in lawns and on hard surfaces and fairy rings on lawns; destruction of ants in the garden and wasps' nests. It is a useful disinfectant for greenhouses/poly-tunnels, staging, seed trays etc., and is the only disinfectant to be effective against the dog roundworm Toxocara canis.
What's It For? — Autumn & Winter Lawn Feed
If you treated your lawn with fertiliser this year, you probably used 'Spring and Summer' and/or 'Feed, Weed and Moss Killer' as and when necessary. These fertilisers have a high nitrogen content compared with their phosphate and potash contents in order to promote vigorous growth. It is not always realised that they should not be applied after say about the end of August, since this can lead to soft growth, which may be susceptible to disease as winter approaches and average temperatures drop. However, your lawn could still benefit from a change to 'Autumn and Winter Lawn Feed', the nitrogen content of which is relatively low but with high phosphates and potash contents. These ensure a strong root system and disease resistance and provide for vigorous growth when spring arrives.
What's It For? — Bonemeal
When finely ground and sterilised, bones provide a slowly available source of 'organic' phosphate, which is safe to handle. As a bonus, they also provide a useful level of slowly available 'organic' nitrogen.
Bonemeal is a particularly good pre-planting fertiliser for roses, shrubs, trees and other woody plants, encouraging strong and healthy root growth, leading to quick establishment. Vegetables, especially peas, potatoes, onions and root crops benefit from it and a regular dressing encourages the vigour and colour of outdoor bulbs and plants.
It may be applied all the year round as a base dressing before sowing and planting. Sprinkle it evenly over the whole area (4oz per square yard) and work into the top 4 inches of soil with a fork. When planting roses, trees and shrubs, mix 4oz with the soil from the planting hole before planting. As a top dressing to established plants, sprinkle it evenly amongst bushes and flowers, between rows of vegetables or over the whole area covered by the branch spread of trees and shrubs. Hoe or rake in and, if dry, water well for maximum benefit.
What's It For? — Calcified Seaweed
Calcified Seaweed is a calcareous marine algae resembling coral, known to marine biologists as Lithothamnium Calcareum. It is dredged from the sea bed mainly off the Brittany coast, dried at low temperature and crushed to a fine powder, which is readily assimilated by the soil. It contains about 46% calcium oxide, 5% magnesium oxide; sulphur, copper, iodine and cobalt and some twenty trace elements. It is an ideal soil conditioner and clay breaker, and can be used on lawns, beds and borders as an alternative to lime to correct soil acidity. It is highly favoured by chrysanthemum, sweet pea, dahlia, leek and onion growers. It is non-toxic and safe to use, does not scorch and stores well if kept in a reasonably dry place. 'Seagold' comes with an explanatory pamphlet listing application rates for different circumstances; copies can be obtained from the Trading Hut on Sunday mornings from 10.30am to 12 noon.
What's It For? — Lime
Soil is limed as and when necessary to counteract its natural tendency to become more acidic and to create and maintain optimum conditions for plant growth. Soils may be alkaline (chalk or limestone soils) or acidic (peaty soils) in reaction. An alkaline soil contains lots of calcium - an element required in small amounts by all plants. In very acid soils there is a shortage of calcium salts. The acidity or alkalinity of a soil is measured on the pH scale, which ranges from zero (exceedingly acid) through 7 (neutral) to 14 (exceedingly alkaline). In Britain most soils tend to be slightly acidic due to rain constantly leaching out the calcium. Luckily, most plants will thrive if the acidity of the soil can be adjusted to a compromise pH of 6.0-6.5. Club root disease of brassicas flourishes in acid soils but can usually be controlled if the soil can be held at a pH 7.5 (the upper pH limit for this class of vegetable). Simple soil testing kits, available from garden centres, enable you to determine the pH of your soil. They also give a list of plant pH preferences and the amount of ground limestone that you need to apply to raise the pH by one unit.
It is always preferable to use lime in the form of ground limestone (or chalk), which is safe and easy to apply. Hydrated lime (slaked lime, builder's lime) is available but its caustic nature means that it must be handled with care and applied with care to avoid damaging plants in the vicinity. If possible, apply the lime in autumn or after winter digging so that the rains wash it in slowly. Choose a calm day and spread it evenly by hand. Never use lime at the same time as manure or nitrogenous fertilisers as it may react chemically with them and reduce their effectiveness. If you are in a rush, apply the lime to soil that has been raked to a fine tilth and distribute it by raking well into the top few inches. Water the area and allow it to stand for a week before applying a nitrogenous fertiliser.
What's It For? — Milk
It would seem that the kitchen, rather than genetic engineering, may hold the key to garden pest control in the future. According to a report in New Scientist (14th Oct '99) Brazilian scientists have discovered that spraying plants with dilute cows' milk stops powdery mildew in its tracks. The disease is controlled conventionally by spraying with benomyl or other synthetic fungicides. Apparently, milk diluted with nine parts of water is just as effective. So milk joins that other kitchen standby, bicarbonate of soda, as a safer alternative to chemical sprays. The only snag is that in Britain, because neither substance is approved as a pesticide, anyone tempted to try them in the garden risks prosecution!
What's It For? — Old Carpet
Even when an allotment is filled with crops, a large area of bare ground remains that needs to be kept free of weeds. This area can be reduced considerably if access paths between rows / blocks of crops are covered by strips of carpet. Strips of man-made fibre carpets resist rotting and should have a life of at least two seasons. They are easy to cut with a Stanley knife using a tightly stretched garden line as a guide. Such covered pathways can be created quickly as and when required and the carpet rolled up when not needed. When the strips begin to sprout weeds, as they certainly will, simply turn them over as often as necessary.
What's It For? — Phostrogen
Phostrogen is a specially formulated all-purpose plant food in the form of a white, water-soluble powder. It contains nitrogen to promote healthy green foliage; potash to develop abundant flowers and fruit and make plants drought and disease resistant; phosphate to encourage a strong, healthy root system; and essential trace elements to keep plants healthy.
For convenience, it is normally applied as a solution in water. It can be used regularly throughout the growing season for all types of plants, both indoor and out. Apply plant food solution round the roots of plants as far out as the foliage reaches, using as much solution as when watering thoroughly.
How much and how often?
Container plants and young plants and seedlings: 1 level 5ml teaspoon in 10 litres of water, at every watering.
Flowers, shrubs trees, lawns, fruit and vegetables: 4 level 5ml teaspoons in 10 litres of water, every 7-14 days.
Tomatoes: 4 level 5ml teaspoons in 10 litres of water, every 7 days after first flowers have set.
House plants: 3 pinches per litre, at every watering.
Powder application, apply 2oz per square yard as a soil dressing in spring and repeat in the summer. Alternatively, to feed your garden in minutes, use a Phostrogen 'Handy Feeder', 'Easy Feeder' or 'Thru Hose Feeder'. Simply pour 250g of powder into the feeder bowl and use as directed in the feeder instructions.
What's It For? — Spring & Summer Lawn Feed
This fertilizer is specially formulated for lawns and grassed areas, and contains nitrogen, phosphate and potash (N-P-K 11-5-5). Used at 6-8 week intervals from say April to August, it will maintain an attractive lawn with good colour (see also What's It For? — Autumn and Winter Lawn Feed). Apply evenly at 1oz per square yard when rain is forecast, but if no rain falls within 48 hours water it in with a hose or watering can. Do not apply on top of wet grass as some scorch may occur. Do not use during very dry or frosty weather. After a very wet winter you may have to 'renovate' your lawn by dressing it with 'Lawn Feed, Weed and Moss Killer' - possibly more than once (the manufacturer recommends not more than three such treatments annually). This contains herbicides (to kill the weeds); sulphate of iron (to kill the moss); nitrogen (for top growth); potash (for hardiness) but no phosphate (for root growth). Being a 'multipurpose dressing', it costs about 20% more than Spring and Summer fertilizer at today's prices. Therefore, once your moss and weed problems are under control, change to Spring and Summer Fertilizer - it's better and cheaper.
What's It For? — Sulphate of Iron
Sulphate of Iron is used for lawn improvement, moss control and for creating the acidic soils needed by lime-hating plants such as rhododendrons, azaleas, heathers etc. It darkens the lawn grasses and improves their appearance. Used regularly, it gradually increases the acidity of the soil, which discourages some weeds and favours the finer grasses. It helps to protect the lawn against some common diseases and controls moss and algae growth.
As it is soluble in water, a convenient "moss killer" can be made by dissolving 1oz in 2 gallons of water and applying this from a plastic watering can with a fine rose over 4 square yards in spring and autumn. In spring, the inclusion of sulphate of ammonia (2oz) will boost the growth of the grass but this should be omitted from the autumn treatment so that the grass will harden off for the winter.
What's It For? — Sulphate of Potash
Potash strengthens plants and makes them more weather and disease resistant. It also encourages flower formation and colour, leading to better blooms and higher fruit yields. It is particularly beneficial to tomatoes.
Apply it from early spring to November as a base dressing before sowing or planting. Sprinkle it evenly over the whole area (2oz per square yard) and work it into the top 4 inches of soil with a hoe or rake. As a top dressing to established plants, apply early in spring (1oz per square yard generally and up to 4 oz per square yard for fruit trees and bushes). Sprinkle evenly between rows of vegetables, amongst flowers and over the whole area covered by the branch spread of trees, shrubs and fruit bushes. Hoe or rake in and, if dry, water well for maximum benefit. Do not apply as a heap at the base of the stem and shake off any that lodges on the foliage. It may also be dissolved in water (1oz in 2 gallons) and used as a liquid feed.
What's It For? — Sulphate of Ammonia
Sulphate of Ammonia is a well-established, quick-acting, growth-promoting fertiliser with a response normally seen in about 10 days. Its main use is to give a rapid boost to established, quick-growing vegetables and salad crops. It is also a very effective spring tonic for shrubs, fruit and spring greens.
Apply it from April to September. Sprinkle it evenly between the rows of vegetables and under the full branch spread of trees, shrubs and fruit bushes (1oz per square yard). Hoe or rake it in and, if dry, water well for maximum benefit. Do not apply as a heap at the base of the stem and shake off any that lodges on the foliage. It may also be dissolved in water (1oz in 2 gallons) and used as a liquid feed. A light sprinkling over the surface of a compost heap each time the height rises by about 6 inches will speed the rate of compost production by 'feeding' the organisms responsible for the degradation process.
What's It For? — Superphosphate
Phosphates are vital in helping root development and the quick establishment of young and recently moved plants. Vegetables, especially peas, potatoes, onions and root crops benefit from them and a regular dressing encourages the vigour and colour of outdoor bulbs and flowers. Phosphates also encourage the early maturing of fruit.
Superphosphate may be applied all the year round as a base dressing before sowing or planting. Sprinkle it evenly over the whole area (2oz per square yard) and work into the top 4 inches of soil with a fork or hoe. As a top dressing to established plants, sprinkle over the whole area covered by the branch spread of established bushes, trees and shrubs (2oz per square yard). Hoe or rake in and, if dry, water in for maximum benefit. Do not apply as a heap at the base of the stem and shake off any that lodges on the foliage.
Wednesday, October 11, 2006, 08:07 PM
Must say tenants are thrilled with the standard of work and at my Annual Court Meeting with Gillian Peck (Housing services manager) when they said so at the open meeting. Gillian says that across the board where Green as Grass have new contracts, everyone is pleased with the work and if this continues it is likely that contracts will continue to be issued - assuming that the figures add up when the new contracts come up for grabs in a years time!! all sounds good eh? you all deserve it. It reallymakes a change to have proper `gardeners` on site who care what they do.
Suzanne Etheridge
Housing21 Court Manager, Edmund Bacon Court.
Suzanne Etheridge
Housing21 Court Manager, Edmund Bacon Court.
Sunday, September 24, 2006, 09:11 PM
A
Angel's Fishing Rods - Dierama
Apple - Malus
Auricula - Primula auricula
Avens - Geum
B
Baby's Breath - Gypsophila
Banana - Musa
Bath Asparagus - Ornithogalum pyrenaicum
Bear's Breeches - Acanthus
Bear's Ears - old name for auricula
Beech - Fagus sylvatica
Bergamot - Monarda [also refers to Bitter Orange, Citrus bergamia]
Bindweed - Calystegia sepium [hedge] Convolvulus arvensis [field]
Black Cohosh - Cimicifuga racemosa
Blackberry - Rubus fruticosus
Black-Eyed Susan - Thunbergia alata
Blackthorn - Prunus spinosa
Blanket Flower - Gaillardia aristata
Bleeding Hearts - Dicentra spectabilis
Bluebell - Hyacinthoides non-scripta [Campanula rotundifolia in Scotland]
Blue Eyes - Veronica persica [Speedwell]
Bottlebrush - Callistemon
Box - Buxus
Bugbane - Cimicifuga
Burdock - Arctium
Butterbur - Petasites hybridus
Buttercup - Ranunculus acris [meadow]
Butterwort - Pinguicula vulgaris
Butterfly Bush - Buddleja [named for the Rev Buddle]
Butterfly Orchid - Platanthera chlorantha [Greater], Platanthera bifolia [Lesser] Nattfiol [Norway].
C
Californian Lilac - Ceanothus
Californian Poppy - Eschscholzia
Calla Lilies - Zantedeschia
Canary Creeper - Tropaeolum peregrinum
Canterbury Bells - Campanula medium
Cast Iron Plant - Aspidistra
Celandine - Ranunculus ficaria
Century Plant - Agave
Cherry - Prunus
Cherry Pie - Heliotropium
Chestnut - Aesculus hippocastanum [Horse], Castanea sativa [Sweet]
Chinese Chives - Allium tuberosum
Chives - Allium schoenoprasum
Chocolate Cosmos - Cosmos atrosanguineus
Cloudberry - Rubus chamaemorus Molte [Norway]
Clover - Trifolium pratense [red] Trifolium repens [white]
Christmas Box - Sarcococca
Coleus - Solenostemon
Coltsfoot - Tussilago farfara
Columbine - Aquilegia
Common Spotted Orchid - Dactylorhiza fuchsii
Cornflower - Centaurea cyanus
Cow Parsley - Anthriscus sylvestris
Cowslip - Primula veris
Crab Apple - Malus sylvestris [wild]
Cuckoo Flower - Cardamine pratensis
D
Daffodil - Narcissus
Daisy - Bellis perennis, Shasta Daisy = Leucanthemum maximum [also see Ox-Eye Daisy]
Day Lily - Hemerocallis
Dock - Rumex
Dutchman's Breeches - Dicentra cucullaria
Dutchman's Pipe - Aristolochia elegans
E
Elder - Sambucus nigra
Evening Primrose - Oenothera
F
Fennel - Foeniculum
Fireweed - Epilobium
Fleabane - Pulicaria dysenterica
Four o'clock Flower - Mirabilis jalapa
Foxglove - Digitalis
G
Geranium - often used to refer to Pelargonium [link goes to true geraniums]
Glastonbury Thorn - Crataegus monogyna 'Biflora' [twice flowering]
Golden Rod - Solidago
Goose Grass - Galium aparine also known as Cleavers
Gorse - Ulex europaeus
Granny's Bonnets - Aquilegia
Grape - Vitis
H
Hart's Tongue Fern - Asplenium scolopendrium
Hattie's Pincushion - Astrantia
Hawkweed - Heiracium auranticum
Hawthorn - Crataegus monogyna, Midland Hawthorn = C.laevigata
Hazel - Corylus avellana
Heartsease - Viola tricolor
Heather - Calluna vulgaris, Bell Heather = Erica cinerea
Herb Robert - Geranium robertianum
Holly - Ilex aquifolium
Honeysuckle - Lonicera
Honeywort - Cerinthe
Hop - Humulus lupulus
Hornbeam - Carpinus betulus
Horse Chestnut - Aesculus hippocastanum [Conker Tree]
Hot Water Plant - Achimenes
I
Ivy - Hedera helix
J
Jack-in-the-Pulpit - Arum maculatum
Jacob's Ladder - Polemonium caeruleum
K
Kangaroo Apple - Solanum laciniatum [also Poroporo NZ]
Kingcup - Caltha palustris [also Marsh Marigold]
Knapweed - Centaurea scabiosa
Kudzu Vine - Pueraria lobata
L
Lady-in-the-Bath - Dicentra spectabilis [also Lady-in-a-Chaise?]
Lady's Bedstraw - Galium verum
Lady's Mantle - Alchemilla mollis
Lamb's Ears - Stachys byzantina [also Lamb's Tongues]
Lemon Verbena - Aloysia triphylla [was Lippia citriodora]
Lilac - Syringa
Lily of the Valley - Convallaria
Lime - Tilia or Citrus aurantiifolia
London Pride - Saxifraga x urbium
Lords and Ladies - Arum maculatum
Lovage - Levisticum
Love Lies Bleeding - Amaranthus
M
Malus - Apple including Crab Apple cultivars
Marigold - Tagetes [French Marigold] or Calendula [Pot Marigold]
May Tree - Crataegus monogyna [Midland Hawthorn C. laevigata]
Meadow Cranesbill - Geranium pratense
Mentha - Mint
Mignonette - Reseda odorata [odorata - scented]
Mile-a-Minute Vine - Fallopia baldschuanica
Mimosa - Acacia or specifically Mimosa pudica
Mistletoe - Viscum album
Mock Orange - Philadelphus or Choisya
Monkshood - Aconitum napellus
Montbretia - Crocosmia
Moonflower - Ipomea alba
Morelle de Balbis - Solanum sisymbrifolium
Morning Glory - Ipomea
Motherwort - Leonurus cardiaca
Mugwort - Artemisia vulgaris
N
Nasturtium - Tropaeolum
Nettle - Urtica dioica
New Zealand Sedge - Carex
Night Scented Stock - Matthiola bicornis
Nile Lilies - Agapanthus [or African Lilies]
Nodding Lady's Tresses - Spiranthes cernua odorata
O
Oak - Quercus robur
Old Man's Beard - Clematis vitalba
Ox-Eye Daisy - Leucanthemum vulgare
P
Parsley - Petroselinum crispum
Passion Flower - Passiflora
Pennyroyal - Mentha pulegium
Pennywort - Hydrocotyle vulgaris
Perennial Stock - Matthiola incana
Periwinkle - Vinca
Pansy - Viola
Pignut - Conopodium majus
Pineapple Plant - Eucomis [real pineapple - Ananas]
Pinks - Dianthus
Poached Egg Plant - Limnanthes douglasii
Pokeweed - Phytolacca
Poppy - Papaver
Primrose - Primula vulgaris
Purple Coneflower - Echinacea
Q
Quince - Cydonia oblonga the 'true' quince [Japanese Quince - Chaenomeles speciosa]
R
Rosebay Willowherb - Epilobium angustifolium [also known as Fireweed]
Red Hot Poker - Kniphofia
Rock Rose - Helianthemum [helios = sun]
S
St John's Wort - Hypericum
Sage - Salvia
Scotch Flame Flower - Tropaeolum speciosum
Scots Pine - Pinus sylvestris
Sloe - Prunus spinosa
Snapdragon - Antirrhinum
Sneezeweed - Helenium
Snowdrop - Galanthus
Snow-in-Summer - Cerastium tomentosum
Soapwort - Saponaria officinalis [also Bouncing Bet]
Spanish Flag - Mina lobata
Sticky Catchfly - Lychnis viscaria [viscaria = sticky]
Stinking Iris - Iris foetidissima [foetid=smelly] Gladdon Iris
Stitchwort - Stellaria holostea [Greater]
Sundew - Drosera
Sunflower - Helianthus [helios = sun] perennial and annual
Sweet Cicely - Myrrhis odorata [odorata = scented]
Sweet Pea - Lathyrus
Sweet Sultan - Centaurea moschata
Sweet William - Dianthus barbatus
T
Tarragon - Artemisia dracunculus
Teasel - Dipsacus fullonum
Tea Bush - Camellia sinensis
Tea Tree - Melaleuca alternifolia
Thrift - Armeria maritima
Tiger Lily - Lilium lancifolium [was tigrinum]
Toadflax - Linaria vulgaris
Tobacco Plant - Nicotiana
Tomato - Lycopersicon
Traveller's Joy - Clematis vitalba
Tuberose - Polianthes tuberosa
V
Verbena [not Verbina]
Violet - Viola odorata, Dog Violet - Viola riviniana
Virginia Creeper - Parthenocissus quinquefolia
W
Wallflower - Erysimum
Weeping Buddleja - Rostrinucula dependens
Wild Carrot - Daucus carota
Wild Garlic - Allium ursinum [also known as Ramsons]
Willow - Salix
Winter Heliotrope - Petasites fragrans
Wood Anenome - Anemone nemorosa
Woodbine - Lonicera periclymenum
Woodruff - Galium odoratum [odoratum = scented]
Wormwood - Artemisia absinthium
Y
Yarrow - Achillea
Yew - Taxus baccata
Angel's Fishing Rods - Dierama
Apple - Malus
Auricula - Primula auricula
Avens - Geum
B
Baby's Breath - Gypsophila
Banana - Musa
Bath Asparagus - Ornithogalum pyrenaicum
Bear's Breeches - Acanthus
Bear's Ears - old name for auricula
Beech - Fagus sylvatica
Bergamot - Monarda [also refers to Bitter Orange, Citrus bergamia]
Bindweed - Calystegia sepium [hedge] Convolvulus arvensis [field]
Black Cohosh - Cimicifuga racemosa
Blackberry - Rubus fruticosus
Black-Eyed Susan - Thunbergia alata
Blackthorn - Prunus spinosa
Blanket Flower - Gaillardia aristata
Bleeding Hearts - Dicentra spectabilis
Bluebell - Hyacinthoides non-scripta [Campanula rotundifolia in Scotland]
Blue Eyes - Veronica persica [Speedwell]
Bottlebrush - Callistemon
Box - Buxus
Bugbane - Cimicifuga
Burdock - Arctium
Butterbur - Petasites hybridus
Buttercup - Ranunculus acris [meadow]
Butterwort - Pinguicula vulgaris
Butterfly Bush - Buddleja [named for the Rev Buddle]
Butterfly Orchid - Platanthera chlorantha [Greater], Platanthera bifolia [Lesser] Nattfiol [Norway].
C
Californian Lilac - Ceanothus
Californian Poppy - Eschscholzia
Calla Lilies - Zantedeschia
Canary Creeper - Tropaeolum peregrinum
Canterbury Bells - Campanula medium
Cast Iron Plant - Aspidistra
Celandine - Ranunculus ficaria
Century Plant - Agave
Cherry - Prunus
Cherry Pie - Heliotropium
Chestnut - Aesculus hippocastanum [Horse], Castanea sativa [Sweet]
Chinese Chives - Allium tuberosum
Chives - Allium schoenoprasum
Chocolate Cosmos - Cosmos atrosanguineus
Cloudberry - Rubus chamaemorus Molte [Norway]
Clover - Trifolium pratense [red] Trifolium repens [white]
Christmas Box - Sarcococca
Coleus - Solenostemon
Coltsfoot - Tussilago farfara
Columbine - Aquilegia
Common Spotted Orchid - Dactylorhiza fuchsii
Cornflower - Centaurea cyanus
Cow Parsley - Anthriscus sylvestris
Cowslip - Primula veris
Crab Apple - Malus sylvestris [wild]
Cuckoo Flower - Cardamine pratensis
D
Daffodil - Narcissus
Daisy - Bellis perennis, Shasta Daisy = Leucanthemum maximum [also see Ox-Eye Daisy]
Day Lily - Hemerocallis
Dock - Rumex
Dutchman's Breeches - Dicentra cucullaria
Dutchman's Pipe - Aristolochia elegans
E
Elder - Sambucus nigra
Evening Primrose - Oenothera
F
Fennel - Foeniculum
Fireweed - Epilobium
Fleabane - Pulicaria dysenterica
Four o'clock Flower - Mirabilis jalapa
Foxglove - Digitalis
G
Geranium - often used to refer to Pelargonium [link goes to true geraniums]
Glastonbury Thorn - Crataegus monogyna 'Biflora' [twice flowering]
Golden Rod - Solidago
Goose Grass - Galium aparine also known as Cleavers
Gorse - Ulex europaeus
Granny's Bonnets - Aquilegia
Grape - Vitis
H
Hart's Tongue Fern - Asplenium scolopendrium
Hattie's Pincushion - Astrantia
Hawkweed - Heiracium auranticum
Hawthorn - Crataegus monogyna, Midland Hawthorn = C.laevigata
Hazel - Corylus avellana
Heartsease - Viola tricolor
Heather - Calluna vulgaris, Bell Heather = Erica cinerea
Herb Robert - Geranium robertianum
Holly - Ilex aquifolium
Honeysuckle - Lonicera
Honeywort - Cerinthe
Hop - Humulus lupulus
Hornbeam - Carpinus betulus
Horse Chestnut - Aesculus hippocastanum [Conker Tree]
Hot Water Plant - Achimenes
I
Ivy - Hedera helix
J
Jack-in-the-Pulpit - Arum maculatum
Jacob's Ladder - Polemonium caeruleum
K
Kangaroo Apple - Solanum laciniatum [also Poroporo NZ]
Kingcup - Caltha palustris [also Marsh Marigold]
Knapweed - Centaurea scabiosa
Kudzu Vine - Pueraria lobata
L
Lady-in-the-Bath - Dicentra spectabilis [also Lady-in-a-Chaise?]
Lady's Bedstraw - Galium verum
Lady's Mantle - Alchemilla mollis
Lamb's Ears - Stachys byzantina [also Lamb's Tongues]
Lemon Verbena - Aloysia triphylla [was Lippia citriodora]
Lilac - Syringa
Lily of the Valley - Convallaria
Lime - Tilia or Citrus aurantiifolia
London Pride - Saxifraga x urbium
Lords and Ladies - Arum maculatum
Lovage - Levisticum
Love Lies Bleeding - Amaranthus
M
Malus - Apple including Crab Apple cultivars
Marigold - Tagetes [French Marigold] or Calendula [Pot Marigold]
May Tree - Crataegus monogyna [Midland Hawthorn C. laevigata]
Meadow Cranesbill - Geranium pratense
Mentha - Mint
Mignonette - Reseda odorata [odorata - scented]
Mile-a-Minute Vine - Fallopia baldschuanica
Mimosa - Acacia or specifically Mimosa pudica
Mistletoe - Viscum album
Mock Orange - Philadelphus or Choisya
Monkshood - Aconitum napellus
Montbretia - Crocosmia
Moonflower - Ipomea alba
Morelle de Balbis - Solanum sisymbrifolium
Morning Glory - Ipomea
Motherwort - Leonurus cardiaca
Mugwort - Artemisia vulgaris
N
Nasturtium - Tropaeolum
Nettle - Urtica dioica
New Zealand Sedge - Carex
Night Scented Stock - Matthiola bicornis
Nile Lilies - Agapanthus [or African Lilies]
Nodding Lady's Tresses - Spiranthes cernua odorata
O
Oak - Quercus robur
Old Man's Beard - Clematis vitalba
Ox-Eye Daisy - Leucanthemum vulgare
P
Parsley - Petroselinum crispum
Passion Flower - Passiflora
Pennyroyal - Mentha pulegium
Pennywort - Hydrocotyle vulgaris
Perennial Stock - Matthiola incana
Periwinkle - Vinca
Pansy - Viola
Pignut - Conopodium majus
Pineapple Plant - Eucomis [real pineapple - Ananas]
Pinks - Dianthus
Poached Egg Plant - Limnanthes douglasii
Pokeweed - Phytolacca
Poppy - Papaver
Primrose - Primula vulgaris
Purple Coneflower - Echinacea
Q
Quince - Cydonia oblonga the 'true' quince [Japanese Quince - Chaenomeles speciosa]
R
Rosebay Willowherb - Epilobium angustifolium [also known as Fireweed]
Red Hot Poker - Kniphofia
Rock Rose - Helianthemum [helios = sun]
S
St John's Wort - Hypericum
Sage - Salvia
Scotch Flame Flower - Tropaeolum speciosum
Scots Pine - Pinus sylvestris
Sloe - Prunus spinosa
Snapdragon - Antirrhinum
Sneezeweed - Helenium
Snowdrop - Galanthus
Snow-in-Summer - Cerastium tomentosum
Soapwort - Saponaria officinalis [also Bouncing Bet]
Spanish Flag - Mina lobata
Sticky Catchfly - Lychnis viscaria [viscaria = sticky]
Stinking Iris - Iris foetidissima [foetid=smelly] Gladdon Iris
Stitchwort - Stellaria holostea [Greater]
Sundew - Drosera
Sunflower - Helianthus [helios = sun] perennial and annual
Sweet Cicely - Myrrhis odorata [odorata = scented]
Sweet Pea - Lathyrus
Sweet Sultan - Centaurea moschata
Sweet William - Dianthus barbatus
T
Tarragon - Artemisia dracunculus
Teasel - Dipsacus fullonum
Tea Bush - Camellia sinensis
Tea Tree - Melaleuca alternifolia
Thrift - Armeria maritima
Tiger Lily - Lilium lancifolium [was tigrinum]
Toadflax - Linaria vulgaris
Tobacco Plant - Nicotiana
Tomato - Lycopersicon
Traveller's Joy - Clematis vitalba
Tuberose - Polianthes tuberosa
V
Verbena [not Verbina]
Violet - Viola odorata, Dog Violet - Viola riviniana
Virginia Creeper - Parthenocissus quinquefolia
W
Wallflower - Erysimum
Weeping Buddleja - Rostrinucula dependens
Wild Carrot - Daucus carota
Wild Garlic - Allium ursinum [also known as Ramsons]
Willow - Salix
Winter Heliotrope - Petasites fragrans
Wood Anenome - Anemone nemorosa
Woodbine - Lonicera periclymenum
Woodruff - Galium odoratum [odoratum = scented]
Wormwood - Artemisia absinthium
Y
Yarrow - Achillea
Yew - Taxus baccata
Sunday, September 17, 2006, 09:35 PM
After spending hundreds on decorating our work vehicles do we see any real benefit from it? Im not sure if it actually increases our turnover but I suppose it does elp us to put over that craved professional perception.
Sunday, September 17, 2006, 08:52 PM
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